 |
Click on
images to enlarge
Woods:
As a luthier
I am convinced that good guitars depend as much on good workmanship
as they depend on good materials. Wood preference varies with
the taste of luthiers and musicians and is also dictated by
the market.
Lutherie woods' quality is graded according to types of cut
and looks, and I use only wood with the highest graduation
for all my instruments. The boards are seasoned before and
after they enter my shop and I also regrade the soundboard
woods and select the very finest to be used later on my Concert
models. |
European
spruce (picea abies): this wood has been
the indisputable wood for musical instrument soundboards
and still is the accepted choice for bow and historic instruments.
Spruce soundboards produce a very clear and rich sound and
are favoured by many guitarists for their great projection.
Spruce guitars will take several years to achieve their
full potential due to a maturing process that seems characteristic
of this wood.
|
Western
red cedar (thuja plicata):
this wood has been very popular by guitarists and luthiers
alike for decades now, and it was first introduced because
of the need to find soundboard woods that would be more
readily available and at lower prices than spruce. It is
lighter and softer than spruce and has the ability to produce
a bright and exploding sound. Cedar guitars have a very
sweet voice and achieve full "maturity" virtually
from the beginning.
|
East
Indian rosewood (dalbergia
latifolia): since Brazilian rosewood has become
so endangered and scarce, Indian rosewood has replaced it
as the obvious choice for backs and sides. A very hard,
flexible and good looking wood, Indian rosewood produces
guitars with great volume and tone and is still readily
available.
|
Honduras
rosewood (dalbergia stevensonii): heavier
than Indian rosewood, this wood produces guitars with great
volume and projection. It is very hard and more brittle
than Indian rosewood which makes it somewhat more difficult
to work with. This wood has been considered for some as
the only possible substitute to Brazilian rosewood.
|
Honduras
mahogany (swietenia macrophylla): I make
all the necks in mahogany. It is a very fine, close-grained
wood, very stable and nice to work with.
|
Ebony
(diospyros crassiflora): ebony is the traditional
wood for fingerboards. It creates a beautiful color contrast
with the soundboards, it doesn't stain with finger sweat
and is stable and wear resistant. I also use ebony to reinforce
and add mass to the necks.
|
 Caviuna
rosewood (machaerium scleroxylon) and Madagascar
rosewood (dalbergia greveana): I use these
woods, together with Indian rosewood, to make the bridges.
All three types work and look very well as bridges.
|
Materials:
Glues:
I glue all the parts using several types of high quality aliphatic
resin glues. These glues produce very strong bonds and can
be removed using heat if needed. I also use polyurethane glues
when I need to glue extra resinous woods.
Finishes:
I finish my guitars with shellac. Shellac
has been used as a finish for ages and is produced by the
secretions of a bug (the lac bug) on certain gum trees in
southeast Asia. It dissolves in alcohol and applies by continously
rubbing it on the wood with a cotton pad. Each new coat is
so thin that several weeks of rubbing sessions are needed
before the final coat is achieved. This method is commonly
refered to as French Polish.
It certainly is the traditional finish for classical guitars
but many have replaced it by less time-consuming and more
wear-resistant finishes. I use shellac because it doesn't
inhibit soundboard vibrations, it doesn't require the use
of sprayguns, it's not toxic and leaves a beautiful finish
that gives the guitar a feel impossible to achieve by other
products.
Shellac is more prone to wear off and is not hard enough to
protect the instrument from nails and bumps, but it can be
easily re-applied and improved after years of use. Lately
i began oiling the bridges instead of using shellac, and this
method is also available for necks.
I prepare my own shellac.
|
Bone:
all bridge saddles and bone decorations are made from cow
bone that I prepare and cut my self.
|
Tools:
I build my guitars using almost entirely hand tools. I have
done this since I was in lutherie school and out of plain
necessity. Hand tools require less space and are relatively
less expensive. As time went by I became accustomed to working
like this. Hand tools give me the control, speed and precision
that I seek over my work. They are quiet and effective and
produce much less dust than power tools. Today I use a small
band saw, a router and a pillar drill to carry out some
specific operations, but I leave the rest to hand saws,
planes, chisels and scrapers.
|
Back
to top
|
 |